Skin Science by Mira

Have you wondered whether you even need a toner? And with so many different types on the market – hydrating, exfoliating, micellar – how would you even begin to decide on which one? And how are they different from essences and mists?

The answer doesn’t have to be complicated. In fact, I’ve made it incredibly simple in this breakdown.

Note: this one of many guides that are being transferred from my Facebook community to the blog. The original post is from several years ago but I have updated and expanded it.

Table of Contents

1. Introduction

2. The History of the Toner

3. The Modern Toner

4. Defining a Toner

5. Types of Toners

6. Necessary Step or All Hype?

7. Conclusion

Introduction

Toners have come a long way from the astringents of the past. Once marketed as a pH-balancing step that removes anything you missed during cleansing, their role in skincare has evolved along with our understanding of skin health and the cleansing formulas available.

The History of the Toner

Astringents and pH Balancing

If you were into skincare in the early 2000s (or before), you probably remember classic astringents like Sea Breeze and Clinique’s original Clarifying Lotion. These toners were often alcohol based as they were designed to remove excess oil, leaving skin feeling tight and dry.

Why? Because cleansers of the time were mostly soaps rather than synthetic surfactants, with high pH levels that disrupted skin surface pH. Toners were created to “balance” the skin by restoring its natural acidity. And at the time, we believed we could tighten pores with these astringents.

The Shift Toward Supporting Skin Health

Fast forward to today, and our approach to cleansing has changed. Modern cleansers are much milder, formulated to minimize barrier disruption. Tap water quality has also improved so there’s less of a need to remove any residue on the skin.

This has led to a major shift: Without the need to try and mitigate the effects of harsh cleansers, toners have evolved into vehicles that deliver skincare ingredients and can be exfoliating, hydrating, cleansing – or multi-functional.

The Modern Toner

Why Do We Tone?

If we no longer need to rebalance pH or remove leftover residue, what’s the purpose of toner today?

Modern toners act as lightweight delivery systems for hydrating, exfoliating, or treatment ingredients. They can prep the skin for serums and moisturizers or provide a gentle cleanse for those on the go.

Toner Confusion: What Is It, Really?

Here’s where things get tricky: toner has more of a description of the texture than anything else. With so many variations – hydrating toners, exfoliating toners, micellar waters – the label itself has become almost meaningless.

So, instead of asking whether you need a “toner,” the better question is: Do you need what’s inside the bottle?

Defining a Toner

Key Characteristics

A toner typically has the following characteristics:

• Water-based (not oil-based)
• Lightweight and thin in texture
• Less thickeners or more water
• May contain less active ingredients than a serum but this is more due to consumer expectations and not always the case

The Viscosity Rule

Rather than thinking of toners as a necessary skincare step, I find it more useful to define them by viscosity. If a product is watery and designed for quick absorption, it can function like a toner – whether it’s labeled as one or not. This includes mists, essences, and even products labelled serum but that are less viscous.

For example, you may have two exfoliants with glycolic acid. One is labelled a serum, one is labelled a toner. They’re both exfoliants and will be used the same way but “toner” tells you that one of them likely has a lighter, more fluid texture.

Types of Toners

Astringents

• The old-school toners.
• Often contain alcohol, witch hazel, or other ingredients to remove oils
• Marketing claims often include “pore tightening” or “pH balancing”
• Rarely necessary today, may be drying

Cleansing Water (Micellar Water)

• Essentially toners with mild surfactants.
• Used for gentle cleansing, often as a morning cleanse or a final step in makeup removal.
• Typically don’t require rinsing, though I personally suggest it.

Exfoliating Toners

• Contain exfoliating acids or enzymes to chemically exfoliate.
• Often marketed as “treatment toners” or “medicated toners.”
• Best applied post-cleansing and before hydrating products.

Hydrating Toners

• Popularized by K-Beauty, these toners focus on delivering hydration.
• Typically rich in humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid.
• Can be used in place of – or in addition to – hydrating serums.

Note: I like to use the term “hydrator” as a general term for hydrating toners, serums, and everything in between. If it’s water based with humectants, it’s a hydrator regardless whether it’s labelled as a toner or serum. They can be used interchangeably.

You can find a list of my favorite hydrators here, including toners.

Necessary Step or All Hype?

Do You Really Need a Toner?

You’ll often hear from dermatologists and skincare minimalists that toners are unnecessary. And technically, they’re right – they’re not essential products.

But “necessary” is subjective. Technically, anything beyond cleanser, sunscreen, and maybe moisturizer for dry and sensitive skin types is not an essential step. But toners offer hydration which many skin types can benefit from.

My Take on Toners

While it doesn’t need to be a toner, I am in favor of hydrators in skincare routines. Whether it’s a toner, essence, or serum will depend on your preferences. Skin hydration is inportant for not just skin appearance but the shedding of dead skin cells, repair, and overall skin health.

I find too much focus is placed on the idea of a toner and what they were previously used for rather than looking at the formulation in front of you. Often people saying you don’t need a toner are themselves using serums that formulation-wise are just glorified toners. They just don’t really understand what the modern toner is.

When you just think of a toner as a watery vehicle for water-soluble skincare ingredients, it suddenly becomes a lot less confusing.

Conclusion

Toners are no longer just a “balancing” step in skincare- they’re lightweight, water-based products that can hydrate, exfoliate, or cleanse, depending on their ingredients.

Final Takeaways:

• Toners aren’t a required step, but they can be beneficial depending on your skin’s needs.
• Instead of focusing on the word “toner,” focus on the overall product and what it delivers.
• If your skin is happy without one, you don’t need to add it. You could already be using an essence, mist, or serum that is functionally the same thing. If a toner helps you reach your skincare goals, go for it.

At the end of the day, the best skincare routine is the one that works for you. And skincare doesn’t need to be confusing.